Hamilton Princess Hotel & Beach Club Hotel Review

My 10-year-old son, Bobby, found a hot-pink phone booth overlooking the marina. We had been strolling the Hamilton Princess Hotel & Beach Club, a 380-room resort in the heart of Bermuda’s capital, watching a parade of speedboats ply Hamilton Harbour. The phone booth stood guard, inviting passersby in for a closer look.

“What’s this tower, Mom?” asked Bobby. “Can I step inside?”

I felt a quick pang of nostalgia—the kind you feel when your kid asks what a phone booth is. The two of us squeezed inside the tiny tower, pretending to call someone, in some far off corner of the world.

With its cotton-candy pink exterior, world-class art collection, and yes, that Instagram-ready phone booth, the Hamilton Princess Hotel & Beach Club feels tailor-made for social media. But the resort also has a 142-year-history—and a loyal local following—to back up all those posts with real substance. Opened in time for a visit by Princess Louise, one of Queen Victoria’s daughters, the “Pink Palace” became a showpiece for Bermuda, eventually welcoming guests such as Mark Twain and Ian Fleming. During World War II, it was even a headquarters for British intelligence.

Today, the resort has expanded under the care of the Green family, who oversaw a $100 million renovation of the hotel in 2016. Their personal art collection adorns every nook and cranny of the hotel, which makes it feel like a museum. There are more than 500 magnificent pieces, including works by blue-chip names such as Yayoi Kusama, Banksy, Takashi Murakami, and Jeff Koons, as well as local artists such as Meredith Andrews, Tai-Quan Ottley, and Nhuri Bashir, on display. “Art is deeply personal to our family and central to the Hamilton Princess experience,” the Green family said in a statement to Travel + Leisure. “The hotel gives us a unique opportunity to share our private collection with the public—transforming it into more than just a place to stay.”

No sooner had we walked through the main entrance, with its stunning mahogany doors and doormen in their fine Bermuda shorts, than Bobby found a life-size sculpture of a Star Wars stormtrooper: a piece by the New York City-based artist Daniel Arsham. For my son, it ranked second to “At This Time,” by the artist Kaws, a slightly altered version of Mickey Mouse, covering his eyes.

Art aside, this is a supremely family-friendly resort, with multiple pools, a private beach club, and an excellent Gold Wing club level with private check-in. My family and I have stayed at this resort four times, and the property always has innovative new offerings. This time: a chic SteamLine luggage collaboration with watercolor artist Riley Sheehey, who painted a vibrant depiction of the hotel that appears on everything from packing cubes to the interior of a darling hatbox.

Here is what it is like to stay at the Hamilton Princess Hotel & Beach Club, A Fairmont Managed Hotel.

The Rooms

Ranging in size from 325 to 1,700 square feet, the resort’s 380 rooms are supremely comfortable, with blue, brown, and gold color schemes and views that may include the harbor, garden, city, or infinity pool. When Bobby was a baby and we were eager for extra space, we opted for one of the two Penthouse Suites: 810-square-foot rooms on the sixth and seventh floors of the main building, with generous living areas and wraparound terraces (and more art, including a Warhol). We’ve also tried out Fairmont Gold water-facing rooms, located in the main historic building. If you’re traveling as a couple or on your own, these compact but stylish rooms are a safe bet.

Moving between the various wings as well as the historic main building can require elevator rides and a bit of walking—but we always get there, eventually. The hotel also attracts a fair amount of business and convention travelers, something to keep in mind when considering seasonal availability and restaurant reservations.

On this vacation, we road-tested the renovated 113-room Bermudiana Wing. Spanning three floors on the resort’s far western end, it now sparkles thanks to a $15 million overhaul. Interior designer Pierre Josselin took cues from the surroundings, adding coastal touches like oak wood furniture, blue accents in the carpets, and curving, yacht-like lines. At 690-square-feet, our Fairmont Gold signature one-bedroom suite was supremely spacious for a family of three, and included two bathrooms (one with a standalone tub), a bright living area, and two balconies overlooking the water. Staffers brought turndown treats including a DIY dark-and-stormy kit for me, as well as coloring books for Bobby.

Repeat guests often book access to the wonderful Gold Floor lounge, which has a private terrace and several seating areas for complimentary breakfast, honor-bar drinks, and afternoon tea. The Gold Floor team—many of whom have worked there for years—goes above and beyond to learn your preferences; cappuccinos and croissants were brought to us the minute we sat down, every morning, without fail. The vibe is relaxed and conversational. One morning, we compared notes with Peter, a long-time staffer, on an abstract piece by Canadian artist Jean-Paul Riopelle, searching for animals and figures hiding among the thick strokes of paint.

The Design

Made of local limestone, the Princess still resonates as a 19th-century landmark, from the white trim ringing the façade to the graceful arches at the porte cochère. But once inside, you’ll find that the overall aesthetic leans sleek and contemporary. A series of Andy Warhol screen prints—vibrant depictions of Queen Elizabeth II—greet guests at check-in. (For a more in-depth look at the art collection, private tours are bookable through the concierge team; a digital “DIY” tour can also be done at your own pace.) Near the upscale retail shops, a custom, 27,500-piece Lego set of the resort–the work of American artist Sean Kenney–gives a great sense of the size and scale of the property, which also includes a 60-berth marina.

As part of the extensive 2016 renovation, a sleek infinity-edge pool was added near the marina. Fresh off a morning flight from New York, this is usually our first stop after check-in. Poolside cocktails, ceviche, and guacamole from the nearby 1609 Bar & Restaurant, right along the water, are a terrific way to ease into a Bermuda state of mind. The vibe is casual and relaxed–though I suggest arriving early if you want to get a prime seat facing the harbor.

Food and Drink

Happy hour in Bermuda is very much a thing: don’t be surprised to see a sizable after-work crowd coming into Crown & Anchor, which has indoor seating off the lobby and a smattering of outdoor tables. A true full-service restaurant, it also provides local entertainment–something our family appreciates on a hot summer night. My go-to is the signature “Crown Swizzle”—a mix of Gosling’s Black Seal and Gold rums, pineapple juice, orange juice, and grenadine—or any of the excellent gin-based cocktails.

Another top choice is the two-year-old Intrepid Steak, Seafood & Raw Bar, which replaced a Marcus Samuelsson restaurant. Designed by Botelho Wood Architects, the concept leans heavily on elevated salads and proteins, including fresh oysters, sashimi, lobster tail, and an excellent striploin flight. This streamlined menu works, given the waterfront setting, which leans more formal (don’t be shocked to see some men in collared shirts and jackets). Here, too, the art steals the show: a series of Damien Hirst cherry blossom panels line the stairs leading to the indoor portion of the restaurant, which also has a raw bar, accented by a Josh Sperling canvas. Bermuda’s temperature starts to dip in the late fall and into winter—and that’s when grabbing a table inside the Art Deco-inspired dining room, which also has a chic bar, is preferable. For something still more casual, 1609 offers an entirely open-air experience with more kid-friendly food (quesadillas, tacos, flatbreads, and chicken wings).

Activities and Entertainment

After a few days by the infinity pool, we usually make our way to the shore, as Bermuda has some of the cleanest, most enticing pink-hued sands in the world. And that’s when the tricked-out Princess Beach Club comes into play. Accessible via complimentary jitney service, the facility has an excellent open-air restaurant, serving lunch but also hosting the occasional barbecue night; a pirate-themed playground; water toys such as stand-up paddleboards and kayaks; and several hammocks, strategically set in the shallow waters of Sinky Bay so you can sip a cocktail while staring out to sea.

The club is 20 minutes from the main hotel. I’m always amazed by how it feels supremely sheltered, and, at nearly 32 acres, like its own separate resort. (Tennis and pickleball courts are also just next door.) We often block off at least five hours for a visit, so we can take our time relaxing on the loungers with call buttons for food service or at the string of private cabanas lining the north side of the beach.

Back at the main hotel, there is an excellent, 8,200-square-foot, 24-hour gym and a comprehensive Exhale Spa, which even offers sign-up pilates, barre, HIIT, and yoga classes starting at a reasonable $30. With an extensive menu of facials (including hydrafacials) and various massages (deep tissue, prenatal, tranquility), you’ll be spoiled for choice.

Accessibility and Sustainability

The Hamilton Princess & Beach Club has four ADA accessible rooms; public spaces are also accessible. The resort is Bermuda’s only green key certified resort thanks to a variety of sustainability practices, and there is a further goal of being net zero by 2050. The hotel has installed numerous water dispensers throughout the property; promoted the recycling of tin, aluminum, and glass; sourced biodegradable and compostable food containers; and organized quarterly trash pickups for staff, among many other measures. There is also an apiary located near the beach club, to promote biodiversity. Honey produced by the colony is sold at their on-site Duchess Cafe and Gelateria and used in various recipes at the hotel.

Location

Bermuda’s L.F. Wade International Airport, which unveiled a sleek new passenger terminal in 2020, is accessible via direct flight from major U.S. cities including Atlanta, Boston, New York, Philadelphia, and Washington, D.C. Once on the island, visitors can take public bus transportation; hire local taxi drivers (cash always comes in handy); or rent an electric microcar.

If you’re traveling with small children, the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo offers interactive exhibits, including a harbor seal feed. The space even has a small outdoor playground. If the kids are a bit older, the Crystal Caves complex is an otherworldly experience that involves descending underground to view a clear lake, 55-feet in width, as well as a series of stalactites, while walking across pontoon bridges. For a seaside dinner in a historic setting, nothing beats the Waterlot, a steakhouse with roots dating back to 1670. Recently reopened, there is even a small docking area that allows visitors to pull in on their boat. From the oysters “rockefoiegras” to the tableside Caesar salad and excellent cuts of porterhouse, the portions are generous and flavorful.

Hamilton’s thriving downtown is just a five-minute walk from the hotel. Some of our go-to shops include the Bermuda Bookstore, in business since the 1930s. The current owners have curated an excellent selection of beach reads, historical fiction, mystery novels, and even works that tap into local history, such as the excellent Sea Venture: Shipwreck, Survival and the Salvation of Jamestown, one of my top purchases from years ago. I also suggest leaving yourself time to get a custom, monogrammed leather pair of shoes made at Della Valle Sandals, just up the street.

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Rooms at the Hamilton Princess & Beach Club start from $769 a night. The resort is an Accor property and therefore part of the All Rewards loyalty program.

Every T+L hotel review is written by an editor or reporter who has stayed at the property, and each hotel selected aligns with our core values.