How to Do Venice Like ‘Emily in Paris’—and the Hidden Gems She Missed

When Emily Cooper finally arrives in Venice in the Emily in Paris Season 5 finale (“Veni, Vidi, Venezia”), she does it right: luxury hotels, Grand Canal terraces, and swoon-worthy gondola rides. I’ve just lived that same itinerary with my Italian partner, and every restaurant, canal-side moment, and fashion-week party Emily stumbles into? They’re all real—and absolutely worth it.

“I know you love Paris, but I think Venice is the most beautiful city in the world—and maybe the most romantic,” Marcello tells Emily, when they reunite in Venice. As a lifelong Venice lover and new Veneto resident, I could not agree more. Sometimes my (brand new) Italian husband and I hop on the train to Venice for the day solely to eat cicchetti, visit a museum, and romantically hold hands through the labyrinth that is the city. (And in case anyone’s wondering, Emily’s perfect polka dot ensemble when she arrives by mahogany boat is Stine Goya). 

The St. Regis Venice

Emily and Marcello stay in a Grand Canal suite at The St. Regis Venice, where Lily Collins and Ashley Park also stayed during filming. (We booked the same room type, and I can confirm it’s among the best in Venice.) The hotel comprises five restored Venetian palazzi and boasts the largest al fresco terraces along the Grand Canal, making those waterfront shots every bit as stunning as they appear onscreen. Claude Monet once stayed here when it was the Hotel Britannia, and today the property doubles as an art destination, with museum-quality works by Ai Weiwei, Simon Berger, and more. The St. Regis seamlessly blends Venetian heritage with modern luxury. Even the bathrooms impress: soaking tubs stocked with Acqua di Parma bath salts and bubble bath became our nightly ritual.

Emily and Mindy have breakfast on Gio’s terrace, which, on a sunny morning, is as dreamy as Venice gets. While the show skips a date night here, we indulged in Chef Giuseppe Ricci’s tasting menu—Venetian-Puglian dishes that were exceptional—and I discovered a new favorite wine, Bertani Soave Classico.

The terrace is also perfect for Aperol Spritzes, alongside a tempting sweets stand featuring Esse cookies (also known as Buranei biscuits), which I enjoyed perhaps too enthusiastically. For a more local take, order a Venetian spritz made with Select Aperitivo instead of Aperol—it’s less sweet, slightly bitter, and finished with a salty green olive.

What Emily truly missed, though, was a night at Arts Bar with Mindy. Each cocktail is served in a bespoke glass designed by Berengo Studio in collaboration with the bar team. Emily would have loved the Willful Dart, presented in a pink-and-white candy-striped glass inspired by photographer Eugenio Recuenco, whose work is referenced throughout the hotel.

Water Taxis

Emily zips around Venice by water taxi—and here, “taxi” means a sleek mahogany boat piloted by a handsome Italian driver (I’m hardly the first to note it). It’s one of the most glamorous ways to see the city, though it comes at a price. Locals rely on the traghetto—a standing gondola ferry across the Grand Canal—or the vaporetto, Venice’s floating public transit system. But if you’re already splurging, a water taxi is worth every euro for the unforgettable Grand Canal views.

Bar Ai Miracoli and Mask Shopping

Emily grabs gelato at Bar Ai Miracoli near Campo Santa Maria Nova—a convenient stop for a drink or something sweet, but ultimately a bit of a tourist trap with mediocre gelato. When I’m craving the real thing in Venice, I’m happy to walk a little farther for the best: Bacaro del Gelato, Gelateria Nico (especially for sunset views), or, my personal obsession, the artisanal gelato at The Venice Venice Hotel’s Venice M’Art, a chic sit-down experience right on the Grand Canal.

Emily also shops nearby for Venetian carnival masks. If you’re buying one yourself, skip the plastic street carts and touristy stands, and seek out artisan ateliers that create masks for the actual Carnevale.

Venice Fashion Week and the Acqua Alta

Venice Fashion Week is real. And while it’s smaller than Milan or Paris, it’s far more intimate, with runway shows staged inside historic palazzos. The focus is on emerging designers and Made in Italy craftsmanship, with an emphasis on sustainability and artisanal innovation. Marcello’s first show takes place at Chiesa di San Francesco della Vigna, a striking Renaissance church, before canals flood the venue, sending guests scrambling for rain boots and ponchos.

Acqua alta (or high water) is a natural phenomenon that has always been part of Venetian life. These tidal events are typically brief—when water levels reach about 47 inches, they last less than an hour and a half on average. Even during high tide, the city remains navigable via designated pedestrian routes. In winter, when acqua alta is more common, rubber boots are helpful, though they’re easy to buy once you arrive in Venice.

Moro Restaurant

Marcello takes Emily to Moro Restaurant, and the location scouts got it right. It’s easily one of the most beautiful—and delicious—places to dine in Venice right now. Chef Davide Bisetto and pastry chef Tim Ricci’s restaurant is set inside a grand palazzo, complete with mint-green parasols shading a garden oasis. The menu is elevated Venetian cuisine at its best: fresh seafood, house-made pastas, and natural wines, all meant for lingering over multiple courses.

Emily and Marcello share tiramisu here, with Marcello noting that ladyfingers are called savoiardi in Italian (pronounced sah-voy-AR-dee). The dessert itself is believed to have originated in nearby Treviso in the late 1800s. If you’re not committing to a full meal, stop by Di Moro Café instead for tiramisu and coffee—an especially perfect pairing after a visit to Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti on the Grand Canal.

Piazza San Marco

Emily strolls around Piazza San Marco, and anyone visiting Venice, especially for the first time, will mostly start here. For good reason: it’s stunning. Also known as St. Mark’s Square, it’s the city’s main public square and contains its most famous buildings, like St. Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace. Napoleon called it “the world’s most beautiful drawing room.”

Emily wanders through Piazza San Marco—where most first-time visitors to Venice begin, and for good reason. Also known as St. Mark’s Square, it’s the city’s main gathering place and home to icons like St. Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace. Napoleon famously called it “the world’s most beautiful drawing room.” She passes Caffè Florian, once frequented by Lord Byron and Ernest Hemingway, a classic stop worth making. I only wish we’d seen Emily enjoy an espresso date with Marcello at Grancaffè Quadri, now celebrating its 250th anniversary—and a personal favorite of mine.

Gondolas

Nico, Mindy, Marcello, and Emily take a gondola ride. It’s expensive ($85-$110 for 30 minutes) and touristy, but gliding through narrow canals under ancient bridges at sunset is genuinely magical. Some clichés are worth it, at least once.

Hotel Danieli

The finale’s fashion week party unfolds atop Hotel Danieli, offering sweeping lagoon views. By mid-spring, the iconic property will relaunch as Danieli, A Four Seasons Hotel, Venice—perfectly timed for a visit before summer crowds arrive. Located just steps from Piazza San Marco, the hotel overlooks the lagoon, and under Four Seasons, its rooftop terrace is set to become an even more spectacular spot for events—or a spritz with friends.

What Emily Missed

Here’s the thing about Venice: it needs time. Emily missed a few quintessential experiences, though to be fair, she wasn’t there long. Gillian Longworth McGuire, who lives in Venice and designs trips to Venice and Rome, points out that they skipped the Castello sestiere altogether. “It’s the most residential and quiet part of the city,” she says. “They should have had a meal at Al Covo or Nevodi—and a spritz on the via Garibaldi to watch a sunset from the Riva Ca’ di Dio.”

Emily also never stopped at a proper bacaro for cicchetti and a spritz—or an ombra, Venice’s small glass of wine. My current obsession is Bacaro Risorto for its excellent wine list and baccalà mantecato, a Venetian staple. I also love Ai do Leoni for cicchetti and drinks beyond the classic spritz (though a Select Spritz will always win for me).

And I fully expected her to buy a pair of Friulane slippers. If you’re in Venice, my go-to shop is Quorami, one of the few remaining artisan makers. These silk velvet slippers have been handmade in Veneto for centuries, crafted with recycled bicycle tires and traditionally worn by gondoliers.

Living in Veneto means I get to return again and again—and it’s reminded me that Venice isn’t just a backdrop—it’s a living, evolving city. And that’s something even Emily Cooper can’t capture in 45 minutes.