The Essential Guide to Fushimi, Japan

Most visitors to Fushimi only make it as far as the famed torii gates of Fushimi-Inari Shrine, but a bit further south is a hidden gem: the sake-brewing enclave of Fushimi proper. This nostalgic townscape of tiny canals, weather-aged brewhouses, and venerable shops has been largely untouched by Kyoto’s recent tourist boom.

The history of this boozy mecca stretches back to 1592, when famed shogun Toyotomi Hideyoshi established a castle along the Uji River, bringing not only his retainers but also merchants and artisans to serve them. As the population swelled, the Uji was joined with the Yodo and Katsura Rivers to create a network of canals for the transport of goods, expanding the shogun’s economic reach and power. 

Besides convenient transport and thirsty samurai, the bustling castle town had another key element for sake: plentiful water. Fushimi sits atop an aquifer containing over 20 billion tons of soft water that percolates to the surface at several natural springs. Locals still fill up water bottles at the public spouts, preferring the crisp groundwater over the municipal tap.

At its peak, about 80 breweries operated in this mercantile hot spot. That number has dwindled to 22 since the era of castles and samurai ended, but as they are all clustered in approximately two square kilometers west of Fushimi-Momoyama Station, Fushimi still boasts the highest density of breweries anywhere in Japan, making it the ideal place to explore the national drink.

For insights on how to make the most of a day trip, we’ve asked the advice of Kyoto native Naomi Konishi, a nationally certified interpreter-guide. She’s been based in Fushimi for 26 years, since marrying a local. “It is also where my father was born and raised, which is why the area is so meaningful to me,” she says. 

Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip to Fushimi, Japan.

Best Things to Do

Konishi recommends starting at Choken-ji, a riverside Buddhist temple dedicated to Benzaiten, the goddess of water, music, learning, and wealth. In addition to a striking Chinese-style vermillion gate, the temple embodies Fushimi’s intrinsic connection to water. “Choken-ji houses Aka-sui, sacred water traditionally offered to the Buddha. This pure water is sourced from Fushimi’s renowned underground springs,” explains Konishi. At the purification basin, visitors can use ladles of water to symbolically cleanse themselves and even their money. 

The next order of business should be to ride in a jikkokobune, the traditional flat-bottomed boats that carried goods through Fushimi’s network of canals. The boats operate from March to December, though Konishi says they are particularly enjoyable during the cherry blossom season in late March. “The canal-side sakura and the jikkokubune route are stunning, yet surprisingly, this part of Fushimi remains far less crowded than other famous blossom spots in Kyoto,” she says. “It offers an unexpectedly serene spring experience.”

For an overview of sake making, head to Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum, run by Fushimi’s largest and most famous brewer. The former brewhouse, which dates back to 1909, has been converted into a comprehensive museum with English signage, and a tasting is included in the ticket price. 

For a more intimate experience, Konishi recommends boutique brewer Fujioka Shuzo, makers of the Sookuu label (read as “so cool”). “Sookuu beautifully expresses the character of Fushimi’s water. Because Fushimi’s water is soft, its sake is often referred to as onna-zake (feminine sake), known for its gentle, smooth mouthfeel. By contrast, the mineral-rich water of nearby Nada produces otoko-zake (masculine sake) with a bolder profile,” she says. From the brewery’s onsite Bar En, guests can drink freshly pressed sake while watching the kurabito (sake brewers) at work. The tasting flight includes a sake-lees raisin butter that is not to be missed.  

Another option for exploring local sakes is Otesuji Shopping Street, a typical example of Japan’s midcentury boom in shōtengai, or arcade streets. Its retro charm makes it a tourist destination in its own right. “Unlike Nishiki Market, it has not been transformed for tourism,” says Konishi. “Long-established stationery shops, coffee bean stores, and mizuhiki craft shops reflect everyday Kyoto life.”

Sake fans will also want to stop in at liquor shop, Aburacho. It stocks around 80 local labels at any given time, which are available for tasting at a small counter in the back of the shop.  

Where to Eat and Drink

A popular dining option for visitors is Fushimi Sakagura Kouji, which is comprised of eight small restaurants designed like traditional yatai food stalls clustered around a central sake bar. A nicely carb-heavy choice to prepare for a night of drinking is Ramen Monsen. “It serves a distinctive sake-kasu ramen, where diners can choose from eight different types of sake lees,” says Konishi. Meanwhile, the bar offers a tasting flight she calls “delightfully overwhelming.” It has a whopping 18 local sakes, glasses helpfully slotted into a tray in recommended drinking order.

Locals, meanwhile, gather at Torisei, a yakitori restaurant run by 350-year-old brewery Yamamoto Honke. It is also housed in a former brewhouse, and the aged wooden structure and lively atmosphere impart a homey warmth. A tank at the center holds freshly pressed, unpasteurized nama genshu, served in almost comically large glasses.

Another favorite of Konishi’s is Bengaraya. “It’s an oden specialty restaurant offering warm, traditional Kyoto-style oden in a cozy, very local atmosphere,” she says. Oden is Japanese soul food—savory bites of vegetables and proteins like tofu and fish cake simmered in dashi soup. The Kyoto version is distinguished by a lighter, kombu-based dashi. 

Kombu, the cured kelp essential to Japanese cooking, also features in our nightcap recommendation, Okobu Kitase. This industrial-chic bar in Fushimi’s former red-light area is run by a kombu purveyor founded in 1912. It opened a bar next to its shop to show a new generation the umami-rich delights of quality kombu. The salted kombu chips are compulsively snackable when paired with creamy cheese and chilled sake. 

Where to Stay

Since Fushimi is fairly small, there aren’t many accommodation choices in the immediate area. However, Fushimi is just a short ride away from central Kyoto on the Keihan Line. Longtime Travel + Leisure favorite, The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto is just a few minutes’ walk from Keihan’s Sanjo Station, while luxury newcomer Capella Kyoto (scheduled to open in 2026) is right by Kiyomizu-gojo Station. Both are a straight shot to Fushimi and will have you sipping sake in under 30 minutes.