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Top 5 Can’t Miss
- Go swimming or snorkeling at Brewers Bay or Smuggler’s Cove.
- Try the local specialty, fungi and fish.
- Take a hike in Sage Mountain National Park, the first national park in the British Virgin Islands.
- Stay at The Aerial, BVI, for a private island escape just off the coast.
- Sample local rum at a distillery dating back to the 17th century.
If you’re interested in exploring the British Virgin Islands, Tortola is one of the best places to start your journey. The largest and most populated of the archipelago’s four main islands, it’s the perfect jumping-off point for further Caribbean pursuits to Anegada, Virgin Gorda, and Jost Van Dyke, among the 60 smaller islands that make up the BVI.
“Tortola offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle,” says Cassandra Quirk, the former director of marketing and public relations at Long Bay Beach Resort. “It’s a destination where you can reconnect with yourself and nature and just experience the meaning of true island living.” And although island vacations often conjure up images of beach chairs and hours-long lounging sessions, you’ll want to leave room in your itinerary for Tortola’s most popular activities, which include hiking, snorkeling, rum tasting, and visiting the British Virgin Islands’ first-ever national park.
A few other things to note: Road Town, the capital of the BVI, is located in the center of Tortola’s south coast, and makes a good stop for boat chartering, shopping, and admiring the arriving cruise ships. Since Tortola is a British Overseas Territory, cars are driven on the left side of the road. And while U.S. citizens need a passport to enter, the island’s main currency is the U.S. dollar.
Read on to discover more tips for visiting Tortola, including what to do and where to stay and eat, according to local experts.
Elizabeth Rhodes / Travel + Leisure
Best Hotels & Resorts
Long Bay Beach Resort
“The best accommodation depends on your budget,” says Karl Burnett, a Tortola-based guide for ToursByLocals, who notes that Long Bay Beach Resort is a “lovely option.” Located on a mile-long white-sand beach, the resort is the epitome of island paradise. Its airy rooms, suites, and spacious Beach House—set on a gorgeous private stretch of sand—are outfitted with air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and locally made bath products.
The Sugar Mill Hotel
History meets luxury at The Sugar Mill Hotel, a 24-room property made up of eight buildings surrounding a stone-built, 400-year-old former sugar mill. Guests can spend their days snorkeling, reading in the apple-shaped cabanas, enjoying meals from the hotel’s two restaurants—The Sugar Mill and Tramonti—and sipping cocktails at one of the three on-site bars.
Wyndham Tortola BVI Lambert Beach Resort
Burnett also recommends the Wyndham Tortola BVI Lambert Beach Resort, which boasts “one of the biggest freshwater pools in the British Virgin Islands.” The 14.4-acre property has a spa, a swim-up bar, 50 pet-friendly rooms and suites, and a Caribbean-Mediterranean restaurant, The Turtle.
The Aerial, BVI
Elizabeth Rhodes / Travel + Leisure
The Aerial, BVI, sits on a private island south of Tortola, just a short boat ride away. Besides its exclusive location, there are several other factors that set this 17-room retreat apart from other BVI accommodations. Yes, there’s an oceanfront infinity pool and a picturesque white-sand beach, but the resort also provides its guests with a special blend of wellness featuring sound bowl therapy, bespoke massages, thoughtfully curated menus (developed without refined sugars, food colorings, or preservatives), and yoga classes.
Best Things to Do
Tour Callwood Rum Distillery.
“I highly recommend taking a guided tour of Callwood Rum Distillery for a unique glimpse into Tortola’s history,” says Burnett. “Operating since the island’s plantation era, the distillery provides an insightful look into the past.” While the Callwood family has been distilling rum here for more than 200 years, the popular spirit has been produced on-site since the 17th century. Visitors can stop by, try a sample, and purchase a bottle or two to take home.
Go hiking in Sage Mountain National Park.
Established in 1964 as the first national park in the BVI, Sage Mountain National Park is highly focused on plant conservation and scientific research. It also contains 14 looped trails and the highest point in the Virgin Islands; Sage Mountain rises to 1,710 feet, granting visitors stunning panoramic views of the island’s surroundings.
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Sail, snorkel, or swim in Tortola’s clear waters.
“Exploring the coastline on a catamaran or chartering your private boat allows you to discover hidden coves, pristine beaches, and vibrant marine life,” says Quirk. “It’s an unforgettable experience that captures the essence of the Caribbean.” If you don’t have your sea legs quite yet, you can still venture to Brewers Bay or Smuggler’s Cove for plenty of swimming and snorkeling.
Visit Jenesis Studios.
Jenesis Studios “is the only site left on Tortola that preserves and showcases life in the Virgin Islands pre-1960s,” says Burnett. Artist Reuben Vanterpool heads up the museum, garden, and art workshop, and, according to Burnett, “provides an insightful look into the island’s rich history.”
Shop at Cyril B. Romney Tortola Pier Park.
This outdoor shopping mall features more than 70 retail stores selling jewelry, clothing, shoes, and everything in between. Fair warning: You’re likely to run into cruise ship crowds, so time your visit accordingly.
Best Restaurants
D’Coalpot BVI Restaurant Bar & Grill
While visiting Tortola, “you must be sure to try our national dish, fungi and fish,” says Burnett. He explains that “the ‘fungi’ is a blend of cornmeal, onions, peppers, and okra,” and you’ll find it on the menus of many restaurants that serve traditional local dishes. One of his favorite places to order it is D’Coalpot BVI Restaurant Bar & Grill in Carrot Bay. His other favorite fungi spots include Sappy’s and Matcha’s Bar and Grill.
Brandywine Estate Restaurant
Brandywine Estate Restaurant pairs Mediterranean cuisine with excellent Caribbean views. While guests enjoy dishes such as Spanish paella, tuna tartare, and lobster risotto, they can take in the complimentary sea breezes and stunning scenery from the restaurant’s position overlooking the Sir Francis Drake Channel.
Red Rock Restaurant & Bar
“When in Tortola, sampling fresh seafood is a must. Head to a local beachside restaurant and indulge in dishes like conch fritters, grilled lobster, or mahi-mahi,” says Quirk. “The seafood here is as fresh as it gets, often caught the same day it’s served.” Red Rock Restaurant & Bar checks all of those boxes. Or, for something more casual, there’s Nardie’s Beach Bar at Sebastian’s on the Beach or Patricia’s Beach Bar at Smuggler’s Cove.
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Best Times to Visit
Temperatures in Tortola consistently reach the high 70s and low 80s all year round, but travelers should consider avoiding hurricane season (June through November). It’s worth noting, however, that tropical systems arise more frequently from August through October. December through April is known as the dry season and tends to be a popular time to visit, but Burnett recommends a June trip to avoid the crowds before the peak hurricane season. Plus, he notes that the waters are “more clear, calm, and warm” at this time of year.
How to Get There
If you’re traveling from the United States, you have a few different route options to get to Tortola. Seasonal flights are available from Miami International Airport (MIA) to Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport (EIS), located on Beef Island and connected to Tortola by bridge. Travelers can also fly into San Juan’s Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport (SJU) in Puerto Rico or Cyril E. King Airport (STT) on the U.S. Virgin Island of St. Thomas, then take another short flight to EIS via Caribbean Airlines or Cape Air. Those flying into St. Thomas can also reach Tortola by ferry in just under an hour.
How to Get Around
“The best way to explore Tortola is by driving around the island,” says Burnett. Quirk echoes this sentiment. “The island is a patchwork of emerald hills and valleys, adorned with tropical flora,” she says. “The drive offers breathtaking vistas of the Caribbean Sea and neighboring islands. It’s a serene journey that showcases the island’s natural beauty.”
Travelers can rent cars through Itgo Car Rental, Denzil Clyne Jeep and Car Rental, Avis, or National. Taxis are an option as well, but a rental car is necessary if you’re staying outside of Road Town or you want to explore on your own. Remember to drive on the left side and navigate those steep, twisting roads carefully.

