This Scenic New York Mountain Town Is a Best-kept Secret

My partner and I had been saddled up to the bar in town for barely five minutes when a familiar face walked in, waving like an old friend. “Fancy meeting you here!” I exclaimed. We had met Jeff Allott, owner of both the local bike shop and ski mountain, just a few hours earlier while exploring the area. Before I could finish my glass of sauvignon blanc, a handful of other people whom I had either met earlier in the day or heard about arrived at The Deer’s Head Inn. I had set foot in Elizabethtown less than eight hours prior, and I already felt like I belonged.

Everyone knows Lake Placid, New York. Thanks to its history of hosting two Winter Olympic Games and its positioning within the Adirondack High Peaks, it’s packed with tourists year-round. But approximately 35 minutes east is Lake Placid’s smaller, overlooked sibling: Elizabethtown. Sandwiched between the Champlain Valley and the High Peaks, and less than 10 miles from the shores of Lake Champlain, “E’town” is home to less than 1,000 people. 

Settled in 1792, it’s a town steeped in history. It was once a bustling hub on U.S. Route 9, which served as the main thoroughfare between Plattsburgh and Albany; this was back in the stagecoach days, pre-I-87. Many of the buildings are also listed on the National Register of Historic Places. 

Although I grew up on the edge of the Adirondacks, E’town had long managed to slip under my radar. But as it turns out, a lot is going on in this hamlet. Between an impressive network of mountain bike trails, access to some of the best outdoor recreation areas in the Adirondacks, brand-new businesses, a blossoming food scene, and tons of fun events, E’town might just be the eastern Adirondacks’ best-kept secret. Here’s how to plan a trip.

Where to Stay

Other than a couple of bed-and-breakfasts and some Airbnb rentals, the best place to stay in town is, without a doubt, The Deer’s Head Inn. Located in the heart of town, the building has a storied history dating back to 1808. It served as a hospital site for troops during the War of 1812 and counts John Brown’s widow, Mary, and various U.S. presidents, including Grover Cleveland, as past guests. 

To say the inn is charming is a gross understatement. It carries the title of the oldest tavern in the Adirondacks, but it was renovated and reopened in 2016 under the co-ownership of E’town’s village physician, Rob DeMuro, and Aaron Woolf, an influential local business owner. String lights lead up to an ample porch, which, during the warmer months, is the place to relax. Inside, guests are greeted by the cozy tavern, a cocktail of rustic Adirondack style and modern trappings—the tables adorned in their nightly best, expectantly awaiting patrons.

The Deer’s Head Inn is dog-friendly, so we brought my best gal, Scout, with us as we checked into Room 6: the Library Room. A literary rainbow of book spines paraded across built-in bookshelves, and a note atop the desk detailed that they were free to take. As if I wasn’t already delighted to be slumbering in a room full of books, the color-coordinated composition put my jubilation over the top.

What to Do

Elizabethtown is up for an adventure, any season, any time. Split Rock Falls is a tiered cascade fed by the Boquet River, accessed near the neighboring town of New Russia. It’s a popular photo spot requiring little effort to reach the overlook. Things in E’town go into full swing during the summer months. Cool off the Adirondack way in local swimming holes, or tackle some of the incredible trails, like Hurricane Mountain and Giant Mountain. Get a dose of history at the Adirondack History Museum, open Memorial Day weekend to Columbus Day weekend. 

One of the oldest golf courses in the Adirondacks (and America) is in the center of town and acts as a full-time recreation area. From May through October, Cobble Hill Golf Course offers nine holes surrounded by gorgeous mountain scenery. It also hosts community events like company barbecues, tournaments, running races, and the famous E’town Day (more on that below).

Winter doesn’t slow anyone down here. Cross-country skiers and snowshoers can venture along trails at the golf course, connecting to the Cobble Hill Trails and the Blueberry Hill Trails, with miles of multiuse paths and various scenic lookouts displaying views that stretch to Vermont’s Green Mountains. A new hut building is ideal for warming up by the fire or having a snack. Prefer skates? There’s a rink for that in town.

Mountain biking is king in Elizabethtown. The town’s 19th-century pharmacy building is in the final stages of renovation, partly led by Aaron Woolf. It’s a beautifully crafted hybrid space designed to preserve the building’s heritage by integrating old and new materials. Downstairs, half of the wide-open layout is Allott’s Solace Cycles. The company designs high-end bikes built to handle the rugged trails of not only the Adirondacks, but all over the world. It also serves as a repair shop. “Most of the time when you ride here, you’ll have it to yourself,” Allott shared.

The other half is set to be an eatery and gathering area, featuring housemade kombucha, adult beverages, sandwiches, and other fare. E’town’s local artisan baker, Courtney Marvin, operates her business, The Drifter’s Loaf, out of the back, stocking shelves out front with freshly baked organic loaves. Upstairs will serve as an efficient and well-equipped coworking and events space. In the summertime, live music will waft inside and out to the beer garden through the giant garage doors.

Where to Eat and Drink

One of the best things about staying at The Deer’s Head Inn is being able to walk downstairs for dinner and drinks. Convenience aside, it was one of the most fantastic meals I’ve had in a long time. The menu was fresh, seasonal, and the epitome of farm-to-table, with most of the ingredients sourced from local farms. Act one was a spinach, beet, and fennel salad, and a hearty potato and leek soup. While I was still swooning over those bites, the second act arrived: perfectly pan-seared scallops, steak frites with chimichurri, and the special pasta dish, a sassy cacio e pepe-miso fusion sauce over radiatori. The flavor was next level.

A hot breakfast spot was tricky to come by in E’town until recently, when Michael and Rebecca Baker opened up Pleasant Valley Café, where they serve top-notch coffee, corned beef hash, and homemade potato chips. The Bakers were another example of an E’town “boomerang.” Like many Elizabethtown locals I met, they were originally from town, moved away for a while, and then returned. Despite planning on being snowbirds, breakfast had other plans. “We saw there was a need, so we bought this place,” Michael told me between bites of his chocolate chip waffle. “It’s a community place—a place to gather.”

If you’re a beer lover and up for a short trip out of town, Paradox Brewery is about 30 minutes south, in North Hudson. With outdoor and indoor space aplenty, crisp craft brews on tap, and a full menu of pub-inspired fare, it’s no wonder it’s an area favorite.

Best Time to Visit

E’town is a year-round destination, with lots of outdoor activities to keep you busy. But let’s talk events, the biggest of them being E’town Day. The third Saturday of July brings bands, food, a parade, fireworks, and all-around good times. In September, count yourself lucky if you hold a ticket to the Otis Mountain Get Down, an Adirondack-style bluegrass music festival launched by Allott. The festival is held on the ski hill with multiple stages and a myriad of trails displaying art installations. Wandering is encouraged; maybe you’ll even find the legendary “magic Coke machine.” 

Leaf-peeping draws the fall foliage crowd in September and October, which is ideal for hiking, mountain biking, and stargazing. Winter is for the powder enthusiasts and cozy dinners at The Deer’s Head Inn. 

E’town isn’t your typical tourist town. It’s a genuine living community in the Adirondacks with a shared love for gathering and enjoying its surroundings. But be careful if you visit—you might just want to move there.