This Town in the Pacific Northwest Has Scenic Wineries, Windsurfing, and More

Life in Hood River revolves around water and mountains. With the Columbia River bordering the city to the north and Mount Hood, a stratovolcano in the Cascades, to the south, the small city is a playground for people who like to be active outside year-round. And while the destination has all the hiking, biking, and skiing opportunities you could want, it may be best known for a sport that’s a bit more niche: windsurfing. Thanks to the winds that funnel up the Columbia River Gorge, Hood River has been nicknamed the “windsurfing capital of the world.” As a result, windsurfers and kiteboarders come from all over to play in the wind, especially between June and September.

Travelers with other interests are sure to enjoy Hood River as well. “Known as Portland’s backyard, Hood River is not just for skiers, mountain bikers, hikers, and kiteboarders, but also for art lovers, beer and wine enthusiasts, and foodies,” says Ashley Huckaby, a Hood River local and account manager with DVA Advertising & Public Relations, who spoke with Travel + Leisure via email.

The rich, volcanic soil of Mount Hood makes the Hood River Valley a paradise for farmers and locavores, too. This region is the largest producer of Anjou pears in the U.S., with local growers also producing award-winning apples, cherries, and grapes. The latter crop has made the area home to some of the best wineries in the Pacific Northwest—and locally made beer is just as prevalent. In fact, it boasts one of the highest numbers of craft breweries per capita in the U.S. Many wineries, cideries, and breweries can be visited by traveling the iconic Hood River Fruit Loop drive (more on that below). 

With a population of under 10,000, Hood River is one of Oregon’s best small towns. To help you explore this rich destination, we’ve put together the ultimate guide, including what to do, where to eat, and how to get around.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Hood River Hotel

The Hood River Hotel is as central as it gets. This historic property is the town’s oldest hotel, and its location gives guests easy access to Hood River’s best food, coffee shops, breweries, and boutiques. There’s a room type for everyone, including a 10-bed, hostel-style bunkhouse and spacious suites with full kitchens and windows that overlook downtown. 

“[Guests] are a short walk from award-winning restaurants and breweries, galleries, wine tasting, and nightlife,” said Huckaby. “A stay at the Hood River Hotel wouldn’t be complete without a Nordic-inspired brunch at Broder Øst (adjacent to the lobby), [nor] an [e-bike] rental and a ride from Sol Rides two doors down.”

The Columbia Gorge Hotel & Spa

The Columbia Gorge Hotel & Spa is just five minutes from downtown Hood River by car, but feels hours away. The property sits right on the Columbia River and is surrounded by lush gardens. Rooms have an art deco feel, with some perched on the cliffs overlooking the gorge and others outfitted with fireplaces.

Best Things to Do 

Windsurfing & Kiteboarding

The town isn’t called the “windsurfing capital of the world” for nothing. The winds here are consistent, and Hood River Waterfront Park makes launching into the water easy for even novice windsurfers and kiteboarders. You can book a lesson or just rent windsurfing gear through Big Winds at “The Hook,” a recreational area at the west end of the park. At the Hood River Event Site, also in the park, Brian’s Kiteboarding, Windsurfing & SUP rents out all you’ll need for windsurfing, in addition to kiteboards and stand-up paddleboards.

Hood River Fruit Loop

If you want to eat your way through Hood River, hop on the Hood River Fruit Loop, a 35-mile, self-guided driving tour that passes by 32 fruit stands, wineries, breweries, cideries, and flower fields. It is hands down the best way to see the valley and partake in the food and drinks the region is known for.

“It goes from rain forest to desert in only about 25 miles,” explains Jonathan Cohen, co-owner of The Society Hotel in Bingen and Portland, who spoke with T+L via email. “We can grow apples to cherries to nuts to wheat to wine grapes, all within a few miles of each other, when they’re usually much further apart.”

Skiing

Less than an hour’s drive from Hood River, skiers and snowboarders will find two great ski areas, Timberline and Mt. Hood Meadows. The former is perched near the top of the Mount Hood volcano and boasts the longest ski season in North America (typically November to May). And that’s welcome news for multi-sport athletes who want to kayak or windsurf in the gorge before making turns in the snow up at Timberline.

Hiking

The landscape created by the Columbia River Gorge and Cascade Range is perfect for hiking. The Coyote Wall Trail on the Washington side of the river is a great place to start, especially if you want sweeping views of the gorge. And if you time your visit right, it’s a great place for spotting wildflowers.

Back on the Oregon side of the river, hikers head to Mt. Hood Meadows to enjoy the ski runs turned hiking trails that abound in the area. There’s also a scenic chairlift. Huckaby notes that “the resort hosts starlight dinners on the patio, live music, and other family-friendly events throughout the summer.”

Hood River Harvest Fest

Remember when we said Hood River was a locavore’s dream destination? The valley’s fresh food is celebrated in October during the annual Hood River Harvest Fest. The multiday event is all about local food, and festival attendees can enjoy the bounty of the valley’s best farms and orchards right in the heart of Hood River. There’s also live music, arts and crafts, and—thanks to the festival’s location on the water—plenty of water sports.

Best Shopping 

Doug’s Hood River

Hood River style is fairly specific. If you want to emulate the effortless, outdoorsy look of locals, your best bet is to head to Doug’s, which has been outfitting Hood River in surfy mountain duds since 1984. Here, you’ll find cool beachwear, hiking gear, sunglasses, shoes, and hats from brands like Olukai, Patagonia, Brixton, and Roxy.

Twiggs

The unique gifts, delicate jewelry, and home goods at Twiggs all fit an aesthetic that is both pleasing and creative. It’s a great place to find that one-of-a-kind ring or piece of pottery to remind you of your time in Hood River. The shop runs sales regularly and even sets up meet-the-maker events, during which artists share the stories behind their work.

G. Willikers Toy Shoppe

G. Willikers Toy Shoppe is a local gem, with a huge selection of Lego toys, stuffies, board games, puzzles, and arts and craft supplies. G. Willikers’ employees love to play as much as kids do, and they will happily point the way to cool gift ideas, specific brands, and age-appropriate toys.

Waucoma Bookstore

Waucoma Bookstore is one of the oldest businesses still in operation in downtown Hood River, selling books of all kinds since 1976. The shop continues to promote local authors through book-release celebrations, signings, and readings. 

Arome

We’ve already established that Hood River is a great place for foodies; if you’re a culinary traveler, be sure to step inside Arome. This downtown shop is packed with kitchenware, from aprons and napkins to spices and oils. Tasting events are often held here, and the staff is always up for sharing a favorite product or recipe if you’re looking for some inspiration.

Wineries & Breweries

Evoke Winery

Evoke Winery is set in the heart of Hood River. Using fruit sourced from Pacific Northwest vineyards, this winery comes up with its own concoctions that have even been named the “best in class” by 2023’s Seattle Wine Awards (specifically the 2019 tempranillo and sangiovese). In addition to a long wine list, you’ll find dog-friendly outdoor seating and a menu featuring a variety of cheese plates and snacks.

Pfriem Family Brewers

Enjoy the beautiful and modern tasting room at this brewpub, or grab a beer to go and head to the edge of the river. It’s hard to beat sipping your drink on the riverfront beach while watching the windsurfers zip by.

Hiyu Wine Farm

Unlike the downtown Evoke Winery, Hiyu Wine Farm is located in a river valley far from the buzz of the city. In fact, the farm has gone to great lengths to create an experience that’s immersed in nature, with farm animals and wild gardens adding to the ambience. Huckaby calls it an “almost entirely locally sourced experience,” and notes that the winery received a James Beard nomination. 

Best Restaurants 

Celilo Restaurant & Bar

Both Huckaby and Cohen were quick to give Celilo Restaurant & Bar a shout-out. Cohen says it’s the place to go for a “fine, locally sourced meal” in the area. The menu changes seasonally, but always features plenty of Oregon-made wine and beer.

Solstice Wood Fire Cafe & Bar 

For a casual bite, Huckaby recommends the “beloved pizza” at Solstice Wood Fire Cafe & Bar, which offers a variety of pizza options and homemade ice cream along the Hood River waterfront. You can also take your pizza to go and head to the shoreline for a picnic-style meal.

Riverside

You may not think a restaurant at a Best Western hotel would be a local favorite, but Riverside has been breaking norms and challenging expectations ever since it opened. If you can snag a table on the patio overlooking the gorge, you’re in luck—but no matter where you sit, you won’t be disappointed with the food. According to the restaurant’s website, Riverside is “committed to supporting the local food economy and has cultivated relationships with local farmers, creameries, vintners, brewers, fermenters, and fisher men and women to create dynamic dishes that speak of the region.”

Best Time to Visit

While Hood River is a true year-round destination, for most travelers, summer is the sweet spot, with temperatures staying relatively low and a regular breeze coming off the water. Most visitors spend their days lounging by the river, playing in the water, and dipping in and out of the restaurants, breweries, and wineries that dot the shoreline and downtown Hood River.

If you aim to ski and board, plan your trip in January, February, or March. If you’re here for the food, consider booking a trip during the Hood River Harvest Festival in mid-October.

How to Get There

If you’re traveling to Hood River from outside the state, your best bet is to fly into Portland International Airport (PDX) and make the hour-long scenic drive to Hood River. If you don’t want to rent a car, the Columbia Gorge Express runs between Portland and Hood River every one to two hours.

Those coming from another city in Oregon or Washington can simply make their way to Interstate 84, which runs along the Oregon-Washington state line before dropping down to Boise, Idaho, and Ogden, Utah.

How to Get Around

Though parking and traffic can be a pain, most travelers will find that renting a car is worthwhile, especially if you want to hike, drive the Hood River Fruit Loop, or explore the valley. For those willing to give up convenience in order to save a buck, Hood River has a great bus system that serves the entire area seven days a week.